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Monday, May 26, 2014

26.5.2014 Camino aftermath: Pilgrim's passport and map

Pilgrim's passport

It's more than a souvenir. It gives you an official status of pilgrim
thus entitling you to use hospitality of so called Albergues
which are special hostels made only for pilgrims carrying such passport.
Majority of the stamps are received at Albergues,
others at different stops like churches or even bars (a bar is an equivalent
for cafeteria).














Map

The following is planned out Camino Frances divided into 34 stages,
each stage representing one day of walking, 23 Kms on average totalling 781,7 Kms.
This particular Camino starts in Saint Jean Pied de Port in France with finish
in Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
The roadmap also shows changes in altitude and terrain throughout different stages.
The length of daily walk is only a recommendation by The Camino office
and the division of the whole Camino into different stages is up to individual's
possibilities and motivation.









Sunday, May 25, 2014

25.5.2014 Camino aftermath: Spirituality

Camino and spirituality.


"You are right. 'The peak' — you told me — 'dominates the country for miles around, and yet there is not a single plain to be seen: just one mountain after another. At times the landscape seems to level out, but then the mist rises and reveals another range that had been hidden.'
So it is, so it must be with the horizon of your apostolate: the world has to be crossed. But there are no ways made for you. You yourselves will make them through the mountains with the impact of your feet."

The Way, #928, Josemaria Escriva.

James Clar: One minute dream state (2012), installation of fluorescent tubes, CCCB Barcelona


You may hear it many times at Camino: the Way is not about reaching Santiago, the city itself is not the goal, the walk itself is the goal. Almost like a overworn phrase. What does it mean? 
Somewhere on the road I have met two Dutch guys offering a refreshment (by donation,which means pay as as much as you wish). These two guys were volunteers working for an Albergue (a pilgrim's hostel) for some time. They set up a small stall on the Camino and while pilgrims stopped for a glass of ice tea, they were asking them questions targeting their motivation and expectations. 
Now I understand. Now after the Camino. I think these guys could have felt that Camino is becoming very crowded with many people with different believes and different reasons to walk. However, there is a difference between pilgrim and tourist.
I wasn't spared a question what my reasons were. I told them I wanted to start writing a new book of my life, nevertheless I had not been sure how to start the first words of the first chapter, first sentence... What should the storyline be, the plot... and I was hoping that the Camino would reveal it to me. Do I know it now? I don't think so. I will still have to figure that one out for myself, but now I have the belief. And that's more than nothing.
One thing I noticed through is that the Camino is a magical place that works for a pilgrim like a mirror in which you can see yourself truly. Camino will send you people and situations that you have to deal with and throughout these lessons your personality is peeled down like an onion, layer by layer, that is - let's come back to the previous idea - in case you walk the Camino as pilgrim and not tourist. Certainly, such situations would appear in normal life as well. Nevertheless by deciding to walk the Way you are leaving normal world and entering a unique realm of new spiritual perception, in case you let yourself be prepared for it in advance. 

Saturday, May 24, 2014

24.5.2014 Camino Aftermath: Symbolism

Camino and symbolism.


Scallop shell.


Before the Camino, the first thing that would have probably come to my mind when looking at scallop shell was the famous corporation's slogan: "Go well, go shell." Funny, how easily it could have been adopted to Camino's purpose. Nevertheless, the Way is much older than the Dutch corporation, so it might have been vice versa, too.
When I see someone wearing this sign on his backpack I know the meaning, and suddenly the memories still like flashbacks are coming back: 
"Yes, I can..." and "Poco a poco.(Little by little.)" are the words that resonate within me which I have learnt from my walking companion Sharon, a 70 year old pilgrim from California whose reply to questions about her vitality was: "I am rich in life."
Everyone starting a Camino usually receives a shell at the beginning of one's journey and usually attaches it to his backpack. At the time it feels like a tourist's souvenir. Now, being back in my home country and holding it in my hand, it's much more than that. It's different, somehow transformed. It is the experience it encompasses that makes it transformed.


Backpack.


It is stated as a general advice that a pilgrim should carry 10% of his body weight. I have overblown this recommendation by additional 10% and was carrying approximately 20% of my body weight in my first week. While being still back home, before the actual trip, I put my fully loaded backpack on, walked a little around with it and thought: "Hey, that's not that bad, I can do it." Well, a pilgrim's daily walk is on average 25kms and you can be sure to feel every additional grams you will carry which I did not want to realize at the time.
After first week of walking, when my right ankle got swollen (probably doubled in size when compared to my left ankle) and first major blisters appeared, I  came to realize I was risking an injury and the whole journey. I decided to act immediately and had sent a package weighing almost 4 kgs of gear I considered unnecessary back to my home country. 
How symbolic! How much unnecessary burdens we take on us voluntarily in our own lives? Life could be much more fun and easier without them.


Walking poles (or a stick).


Initially, I have thought that the walking poles are just a touristy hoax, or a support for really old people with weak joints. How wrong was I!
The walking sticks can take  up to 30% of weight put on your feet. I got mines in Burgos after walking 300 kms and the difference in walking was immediate.
How much support and from whom am I getting in my life? And how much support and to whom am I giving? Life can be easier when you share a mutual support with someone, like with a walking companion during the a Camino.


Yellow arrows.


I am thinking of how it must have been in the past, long ago, even centuries, with roads unmarked, when pilgrims were truly seeking God and following routes which are nowadays noticeably marked by yellow arrows. I secretly wished to get lost. The Universe has most likely heard my wish and once I took a very hard unmarked alternative route (which I personally remember as the toughest ever) and secondly I really got lost and walked probably 2-3 kms in a wrong direction. After realizing that, I just turned around and walked back to the point when I made the wrong turn.
It's human to make mistakes as well as it should be human to admit it and make a corrective action. We can learn a lot by doing so.
On the other hand, not all advice is good, sometimes it is necessary to take a different route which may seem to others as irrational or as against the traditional thinking, however such routes will teach us new lessons.


Pain.


I am no athlete and even if I were I don't believe that there is anything that would prepare me for the experience of walking the Camino. 
There were couple of moments during which I felt that I must be on the edge, that it would take a little for my body to collapse under the weight and the heat of the sun.
First day of walking, the toughest part of the Way - crossing Pyrenees - I caught a flew which was growing into inflammation with increased temperature. I put myself on antibiotics and kept on going. 
Walking with blisters hurts. Soon I learnt (through advice of others) how to deal with them by pinching them and having iodine injections run through them.
Walking with a swollen ankle puts you on the edge. One wrong step, uneven terrain, wrong shoes and you may end up with an injury. I found an ankle support in a pharmstore and bought the walking sticks which were initially lended to me by Sharon. 
I got beaten by bed bugs. A very unpleasant experience. I learnt to use antiseptic cream on my bites and prevent such experience by using anti bed bug sheet.
Inspite all of this painful experience I remember saying to someone, a week before reaching Santiago: "I got blisters, I got bed bug bites, skin on my feet is a disaster, but I know that when I reach Santiago, I am going to miss this." The state of mind overrules the state of body.


Wednesday, May 21, 2014

15.-20.5.2014 Barcelona and Bilbao

Lingering

Even my original plan was finishing the trip in Fatima by taking a bus from Santiago (thus the name of the blog), I decided to linger instead in Barcelona and Bilbao. It doesn't mean I have given up the plan of visiting Fatima, I am just postponing it for the time being. 
One of the reasons for that is that I have really fell in love with the Camino and its spirit and think that just taking a bus to Fatima wouldn't be enough so I am seriously considering doing the so called Camino Portuguese (maybe next year) including a stop at Fatima.
I have thus prolonged my stay in Spain until 21st of May with focus on what I like the most: visiting art galleries and architecture.


From Museum of Picasso


Cathedral Santa Maria del Mar in Barcelona



Famous Barcelona pavilion by architect Mies van der Rohe









Guggenheim museum in Bilbao






A statue of spider-mom by Louise Bourgeois

Jeff Koon's tulips

An early morning view of Guggenheim was part of every day's breakfast in Bilbao


Casa Batllo by Gaudi


Casa Mila (La Pedreira) by Gaudi presently under reconstruction


Museum of Contemporary Art in Barcelona (MACBA)


Center for contemporary culture in Barcelona(CCCB)



Foundation of Antoni Tapies























13.-14.5.2014 Finisterre

Overture: Finisterre

They say that the Santiago de Compostela is not the final finish of the journey and that the way itself is the ultimate goal for each Pilgram. Everybody has to find that out for himself. I know that for me, after reaching Santiago I missed walking. Many pilgrims decide to continue to walk from Santiago to Finisterre, for others taking bus must be satisfactory enough regarding their other travel plans. I belong to the second group. However after visiting Finisterre I must admit I regretted not undertaking this small "Camino appendix". According to official recommendations, this final post-Santiago stage takes additional five days of walking, however many pilgrims undertake it in just 3 or 4 days. The scenery is beautiful and takes you on a journey with some most amazing views of the ocean.

An Horreo is a typical sight of Galicia region, they were used for storing food in the past, for different agricultural products, mainly for crops.

A statue of pilgrim overlooking sea

Jordi, a friend from Camino, fooling around with a public fitness machine

A walk from a town of Finisterre to the actual lighthouse (Faro) provides great views

A view of El Faro

The lighthouse

Milestones like these could be seen all the way throughout the Camino,but this last one says 0.0 kms

A modest monument to peace at the end of the world...

I did not expect to find the evidence commemorating a historical event of a peace mission carried out more than half a millennium ago by Czech king Jiri z Podebrad, right here- at the end of the world

This plate of sea food was my personal post Camino treat

Sun at noon can be very strong

Watching sunset at Finisterre beach














Wednesday, May 14, 2014

12.5.2014 Monte do Gozo

32nd day: Monte do Gozo - Santiago de Compostela

5 Kms (cum.779,1 Kms)



A view of cathedral from a park in Santiago de Compostela

One of the towers of the cathedral

Supposed remains of St.Jacob, the ultimate place of pilgrimage

Commemorating pilgrammage of John Paul 2nd to Compostela

View of cathedral from the inside